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Uncorked

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Barbecue vintages put on their best behaviour

Last week’s lot was cheap and cheerful; this week’s raises the bar a bit. There’s nothing here under $20, for all those capitalized Barbecue Situations. As always, prices—and vintages—were correct at the time of acquisition. The government adjusts these monthly.

Concha y Toro Winemaker’s Lot 112 Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

(Chile, $19.95) The Chilean winemakers brew up potent Cabernet, and this is a fine, midprice example. It’s got deep, intense, beefy-rich aromas; atramentous colour; a smoky-ribs aftertaste (so that might be what you’d serve it with); and huge finish. For major meats and really good old Cheddar. Impressive, especially for $20.

Angus the Bull Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

(Australia, $19.99) The winery is called the Aberdeen Wine Company, and the winemaker is named Hamish MacGowan, so set out three fingers of Aberlour with a splash of water and get grilling. There’s dark colour and mega fruit; a hint of summer savory in the rich, mouth-coating weight of the wine; and a heady finish with intriguing aftertastes. Once again, prime beef is the companion here. This would likely go very well with that new Angus burger the Golden Arches are serving up. If they’d let you bring your own.

Rhone Gang Hold Up No. 6 2006

(California, $22.99) Some brilliant Rhone-varietal aromas derive from the Pinot Noir–Grenache blend: sweet at the front, then fruity and full with nice spice, fresh and lively with hints of mint. It’s getting up there, but still not a bad price for the harmonious tastes and soft texture. See www.rhonegang.com/ for information about the origin of the nomenclature and the genesis of this label.

Hillside Estate Pinotage 2006

(B.C., $24.99) Who would pay $25 for a made–in–B.C. Pinotage? That small-but-solid core of Pinotage fanatics who love the unique characteristics of this bred–in–South Africa grape. Sweeter at first hit than the original ones (we get a half-dozen or so here, so you can compare), robust and hearty, it’s just the thing for big stews, oil-grilled vegetables, well-marbled rib-eye steaks, lamb with lentils, and cotechino. An impressive but assertive wine, so probably not to every taste.

Frescobaldi Tenuta di Castiglioni 2005

(Italy, 26.99) Here, Cabernet Sauvignon is mixed with the ubiquitous Sangiovese, producing a rich, leathery, and smoky set of smells, along with some spicy, peppery flavours. A bit hard, though, so it welcomes meat with more fat, and the likes of osso buco, lamb cannelloni, cave-aged Gruyère, rosemary ham, and a mackerel melt.

Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico 2004

(Italy, $27.07) One of these columns, we’ll discuss the whole Chianti issue, like how the original North American pizza wine has a lot more going for it than a lot of people think. This one suffered from a soft cork but still poured deep and velvety, with cinnamon scattered throughout the fruit, but also a fair bit of roastiness.

Greg Norman Limestone Coast Cabernet Merlot 2005

(Australia, $28.99) At the middle to upper end of the Australian price spectrum, there’s so much good wine to be found that it’s tough to pick favourites. This one reminds a bit of those mid ’60s Mayacamas Hills Cabernets from California: round and spicy, a touch tannic but not overwhelmingly, with a rich and silky end-run. Yes, it’s worth the price, but even better if someone else is buying. As costs go up, so do some of the alcohol levels; this one’s 15 percent.

Morning Bay Reserve Merlot 2005

(B.C., $29) You may have difficulty locating any more of this (best bet being the winery on Pender Island), but it’s worth a little effort. While the grapes are actually from the Okanagan’s famed Inkameep Vineyard, the assembly is coastal and the result is a dark, deep mushroom-minty Merlot with considerable finesse and heartiness.

Nk’Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

(B.C., $29.99) And speaking of Inkameep, this one might still be floating around out there; after all, a whopping 300 cases were produced. It’s practically black, with currant and black-tea aromas, and from the appearance alone you’d think the fruit would be less shy. Plenty of pepper and red-cabbage elements, with a roasty, beef-bone flavour and some smoke to the finish.

Wolf Blass Grey Label Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

(Australia, $34.99) A $35 Cab with a screw cap. Get used to it; trust Wolf Blass. Fact is, you can trust the iconic Australian winery for robust reds with glorious fruit. A little eucalyptus, a little summer savory, some berries and chocolate—and we tasted all that before even getting to the back label. In the long climb up the price ladder during the tasting, this one proved to be the best yet.

Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

(Australia, $36.99) Here’s an attractive Cabernet, quite elegant and harmonious despite surprisingly light fruit. The charm comes with the follow-through to the finish, but in the end it’s short front and back, as the old barber used to say. While it’s pleasant enough, there are others here at better prices that compete handily.

Burrowing Owl Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

(B.C., $38) We’ve always had a fondness for the rich reds of Burrowing Owl, the tasting panel and me; this one doesn’t disappoint, either. “Heaven in a glass!” sighed someone whose name I promised not to divulge. It’s one of the most mellow, pillowy-soft Cabs you’ll encounter in your journeys, chocolate sauce–rich and piling on fruit layer after fruit layer. Outstanding with venison loin roast, rubbed with sage and cooked with onion and carrots in a bourbon sauce. Now go and see what Bernard Casavant cooks for it up at the winery’s Sonora Room restaurant in the South Okanagan.

Summerhill Platinum Series Merlot 2005

(B.C., $45) To complete your baker’s dozen box of big reds, this begins with a very shy nose, then opens right up into good fruit flavours but finishes with a little astringency. That “100 per cent organic, unfiltered” et cetera is all well and good, but $45 is a stretch. Like, it ain’t Château Pétrus, eh?

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